Sunday, May 23, 2010

Egil's and Craziness

Egil's Prep work is going full steam. I feel like I have a gajillion things to do, and can't quite bring myself to work on them this evening. My to do list for Egil's:
1) Finish sleeves for my Flemish (see previous post). These are going to be awesome! The are the same plum colored linen as the kirtle, but...they are lined in Orange!
2) Possibly Finish my 2nd Jacobean Jacket (in teal and pink brocade, you will be able to spot me anywhere). I have to attach the sleeves and hem.
3) Make two more Caps for the booth, as well as finish a bunch of other small projects I have been hoping to have for the tailor's shop.
4) Make a new shift! I have decided I need a new light-weight shift. It is all cut out, I just am not in the mood for machine sewing right now. I sat down at the machine and realized I needed to change the thread. That was the end of that for the evening.
5) I want a new hood! Maybe if I cut one out I can hand sew it at Egil's.

In lieu of anything else exciting picture wise, I got a new hat! It is very cute, and I will have pictures at some point of me actually wearing it. Isn't it pretty? And I have the perfect ribbon to affix it to my head!
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Wednesday, May 05, 2010

Flemish Working Women's Outfit

Did I mention that I have costuming ADD? No? Well...I do. Majorly. It's a bit of a problem considering all the free time I have on my hands right now.

Well, two weeks ago, after doing some research on flemish 16th century lower class for a friend of mine who is having me help her make garb, I decided to have a stab at making one myself. I have also drooled for a long time over Drea Leed's site and the flemish information she has there. I also have, at various points in the past, stumbled on dress diaries for the time period and drooled over them.

I haven't done enough research at this point to enter anything, but I think I will have a new outfit for Egil's. Yay!

The kirtle (underdress) is the linen/rayon from Joann's (it's okay...) and only the bodice is lined. I used knife pleats because those work the best in an underdress. Cartridge pleats are lovely but not for a kirtle. The kirtle is side lacing, and surprisingly easy to get into.

I will take more pictures later. It's really hard to take pictures of yourself wearing a dress I might add. And I am horrible at the self timer thingy.

The outer layer is wool lined with a linen/cotton. Both are striped, and I really like the effect. The colors aren't normally what I would associate with Flemish stuff, but both fabrics are from my stash.

I am currently on round 4 of pleating the skirt. In the picture you can see round 2. Frustration!!

Cartridge Pleat Attempt #1: Everything was going brilliantly, I love cartridge pleats by the way, when I realized that the end of my pleating thread had come unsecured and all my pleats fell out. Curses! $%$@$

Cartridge Pleat Attempt #2: Got the skirt all attached (as pictured above), and I realized that my bodice was too long and not hitting me right. Plus, after looking at other peoples overgowns, I realized that I liked the look of the overgown better with a flat front. I had angled the two fronts down like my kirtle initially. So, off came the pleats and I chopped off bits of the bodice.

Box Pleat Attempt #1: I decided at this point that I was going to try box pleats. From the backs of the gowns I have looked at, it doesn't appear to stand out quite as much as cartridge pleats do. And, box pleats make more sense for a lower class gown as they use less fabric to achieve fullness. Not that I am making a definitive statement on what they used. So, I pinned the sides and center back of my skirt to my bodice, pinned half the pleats and started sewing. My luck was not with me. I got to the middle of the back and realized it wasn't the middle of the back. I had pinned the center back of the skirt to the side of my kirtle. So I had half the skirt left to pleat into only 1/3 of my bodice. Oops, back up.

Box Pleat Attempt #2: Keeping fingers crossed that this one will work. I have half of my skirt pinned and it looks great! I have three knife pleats in the very front, and then double box pleats across in order to accomodate the amount of fabric I have. I did knife pleats in the very front so that it would lie flat and flow into the double box pleats which are very thick. Please Please Please, let this work.
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