Flemish Working Women's Outfit

Did I mention that I have costuming ADD? No? Well...I do. Majorly. It's a bit of a problem considering all the free time I have on my hands right now.

Well, two weeks ago, after doing some research on flemish 16th century lower class for a friend of mine who is having me help her make garb, I decided to have a stab at making one myself. I have also drooled for a long time over Drea Leed's site and the flemish information she has there. I also have, at various points in the past, stumbled on dress diaries for the time period and drooled over them.

I haven't done enough research at this point to enter anything, but I think I will have a new outfit for Egil's. Yay!

The kirtle (underdress) is the linen/rayon from Joann's (it's okay...) and only the bodice is lined. I used knife pleats because those work the best in an underdress. Cartridge pleats are lovely but not for a kirtle. The kirtle is side lacing, and surprisingly easy to get into.

I will take more pictures later. It's really hard to take pictures of yourself wearing a dress I might add. And I am horrible at the self timer thingy.

The outer layer is wool lined with a linen/cotton. Both are striped, and I really like the effect. The colors aren't normally what I would associate with Flemish stuff, but both fabrics are from my stash.

I am currently on round 4 of pleating the skirt. In the picture you can see round 2. Frustration!!

Cartridge Pleat Attempt #1: Everything was going brilliantly, I love cartridge pleats by the way, when I realized that the end of my pleating thread had come unsecured and all my pleats fell out. Curses! $%$@$

Cartridge Pleat Attempt #2: Got the skirt all attached (as pictured above), and I realized that my bodice was too long and not hitting me right. Plus, after looking at other peoples overgowns, I realized that I liked the look of the overgown better with a flat front. I had angled the two fronts down like my kirtle initially. So, off came the pleats and I chopped off bits of the bodice.

Box Pleat Attempt #1: I decided at this point that I was going to try box pleats. From the backs of the gowns I have looked at, it doesn't appear to stand out quite as much as cartridge pleats do. And, box pleats make more sense for a lower class gown as they use less fabric to achieve fullness. Not that I am making a definitive statement on what they used. So, I pinned the sides and center back of my skirt to my bodice, pinned half the pleats and started sewing. My luck was not with me. I got to the middle of the back and realized it wasn't the middle of the back. I had pinned the center back of the skirt to the side of my kirtle. So I had half the skirt left to pleat into only 1/3 of my bodice. Oops, back up.

Box Pleat Attempt #2: Keeping fingers crossed that this one will work. I have half of my skirt pinned and it looks great! I have three knife pleats in the very front, and then double box pleats across in order to accomodate the amount of fabric I have. I did knife pleats in the very front so that it would lie flat and flow into the double box pleats which are very thick. Please Please Please, let this work.